To Pre Or Not To Pre - That Is The Question

In a week in which two of fashion's biggest heavyweights - Chanel and Louis Vuitton - reaffirmed their positions as such with pre-collection shows to rival that of their mainline spectacles (more so, in fact - heading off to Seoul and Palm Springs respectively) and the British Fashion Council announced the launch of a new pre-collections initiative coming in June, the conversation surrounding the place of the pre-collection is back - and it's gaining pace more than ever. A pre-collection show is the thing to do, it seems.

Monday will see Dior throw its pre hat into the ring with a show in the South of France, meanwhile Versace Versus will take on London next week, as will MaxMara. Suddenly, everyone is holding a show for a collection that originally started out as the secret weapon of the shop floor (and before that for those who did indeed require a "cruise" wardrobe for just that). What seemed like the sartorial little sibling is growing up. Fast.

Because between seasons, it's these collections that join the dots; their commercially-minded appeal pulling in the buyers and footfall alike and enabling the catwalk to be the fashion playground of designer dreams and ideas.

The question, then, is perhaps not quite so much: when did the pre-show get so big? (Chanel's cruise and Metiers d'Art extravaganzas have been going strong for some years now), but rather when did the pre-show seem to become bigger than - or as big as - the ready-to-wear show?

"The designer fashion sector has responded to the demand for collections that fall outside the traditional spring/summer and autumn/winter period with collections that in some cases now account for up to 70 per cent of sales for some fashion brands," said Caroline Rush, chief executive of the British Fashion Council, when its initiative was outlined this week. So it's a genre not exactly undeserving of recognition.

It's a sentiment backed up by Laura Larbalestier, buying director at Browns. "The pre-show is more important commercially because the deliveries are earlier; our customer wants to see newness before we get in pieces from the 'normal' shows."

Anita Barr, fashion buying director at Harvey Nichols agrees. "Pre-collections have become big business over the last couple of years because of their commerciality; it's no wonder that designers want to make an impact on the market by hosting extravagant shows to provide a platform for their collections."

So it's earned its place in the sun - something which was taken quite literally this week in the case of Louis Vuitton's show in the glorious sun-drenched climes of Palm Springs and Bob Hope's estate.

"It's important that we celebrate the designers that are selling pre-collections in London and make it a date in the diary for press and buyers from all over the world," continued Rush of London dipping its toe in the waters.

Tagging on to the end of London Collections: Men in June, the pre-collections initiative is billed as a buying showroom which will feature a curated group of collections from designers including Alexander Lewis (who actually started his business with pre-collections as the focus), Huishan Zhang, Marques' Almeida, Phoebe English and Zoe Jordan, meanwhile others including Jonathan Saunders, Osman, Peter Pilotto and Preen by Thornton Bregazzi will host presentations and/or salons.

Of course, in this instance, we're not talking of the scale to rival Palm Springs, Seoul and beyond. But it is about putting a spotlight on them, however big or small. And this is ultimately the point. Which takes us back to those of the more limelight-hogging variety.

"I think the 'show' element has become so big because there needs to be more attention paid to the pre-collection - and it needs to be highlighted because it's such an integral part of the business," says Larbalestier. "Customers are so involved in the process now that it's important to make these pre-shows special events."

It's worth noting the addition of a pre-collection is the physical addition of two more collections a year for a designer to produce. And that can be tough enough as it is - indeed designer Mary Katrantzou, who also sits on the British Fashion Council´s NEWGEN committee has said she doesn´t necessarily think it´s for everyone.Will the aforementioned big five brands be joined by more next season? This is one of those time-will-tell scenarios. And in the meantime, London's pre-collection activity will run from June 15 to 17.